Zanzibar, August 2022
All the glorious cliches expected of an island in the Indian Ocean thrive in Zanzibar.
Sweeping scenes of fine-sand beaches, framed by breathtaking shades of sky and aquamarine sea. Lithe palm trees sway in the tropical breeze. A full moon rising drapes a romance-veil over the tranquil ocean. Nations unite for a cocktail-enthused Jerusalema flashmob at sunset.

Perfection.
There is a wildness in me that only makes sense riding on the wind in a Viking-esque dhow. Then there’s also the timidity, that almost didn’t get in the no-lifejackets-held-together-by-rope-and-prayer vessel. The wildness dives gracefully off the side of said dhow, anchored just off a sandbank, to snorkel at leisure in the deep blue. The timidity gets back in the precarious boat after 10 minutes because the bloody tiny white blobs in the water bite.

From 5 – 12 August 2022, we stayed just up the road from Michamvi Sunset Beach, in Mount Zion Lodge, a quaint one-up-from-backpackers with everything seasoned hikers would need. Except, occasionally, water in the taps. It needs to be especially pumped if needed after-hours. We tested their flexibility with requests like a “special Spanish omelet” (a negotiation for fewer carbs at breakfast, traded for more eggs) and a fridge tray filled with suger-free pineapple juice to mix with the local lets-call-it-rum, Konyagi. Our increasingly complicated menu and accommodation adaptation requests were navigated graciously by a very helpful staff. Hakuna matata.
Our closest beaches were at the end of either a 5 minute walk (Sunset Beach), a longer walk/short busride (Pingwe) or a 30 minute-ish busride (Paje). How to catch a bus: Stand on the side of the road and flag down the Michamvi 340. 500 shillings p.p. is the standard fee per trip, regardless of how far you ride it. Expect close quarter company.

We did the things to be done on islands. Snorkeling, forest strolling, Zanzibar-spice (cinnamon, cardamom, nutmeg etc.) ice-creaming, tanning-and-dipping, reading, 2-for-1 specials sundowner-and-moonupper-ing. The booming-bass deep house playlist at Sunset Beach eventually got on my nerves a bit, but it’s a small price to pay for good seafood, Kilimajaro and Safari beer, and flawless views.

The mangroves of Jozani Forest captured my imagination. Brilliant natural engineering that protects the land from flooding, whilst solving its own water salinity problem, and our carbon problem.

In terms of budget, give or take a grilled lobster, save up around R20k for an 8-day adventure. Return flights from Cape Town on Air Kenya (with a short layover in Nairobi) were between R9 000 and R12 000, depending on when people booked. Accommodation for a 1-ish star double-room in Mount Zion (with a shower bathroom and the occasional wifi signal) worked out at around $320 / R5 000 for 8 nights. Everything nice to eat (think pilau rice/stirfry prawn vibes) ranges between $10 (~20 000 shilling) and $35. Beers were between $3 and $7, depending on where you buy. The famous Safari Blue dhow trip/snorkeling (catered, with lobster and prawn and the BEST fries) and Jozani Forest / Stonetown day trips were $40 pp each. An initial monetary curveball was an unmet expectation of credit card facilities at Mount Zion (seemingly not workable, even though physically available), but the Absa ATM in the adjacent bustling metropolis of Paje came through after the ATM-at-the-circle didn’t spit out the money that went off my account.

Travelling, in many instances on our breathtaking continent, politely insists that we consider the fact that a little discomfort on the odd occasion doesn’t mean that there isn’t a perfectly sufficient system that will eventually deliver a great result. It seemed to me like Zanzibar carries the juxtapositions of Africa effortlessly. The walled-in luxury resorts with their own mini solar PV farms and all the private beach access deck chairs one could ever wish to lounge in. Also, the overfull public busses that need to be push-started, with wooden floors that offer a road-view through gaping holes. Zanzibar seems like a country-under-construction. Literally. With great expectations. Pole pole.
Destination branding sometimes sets a photogenic tourism hotspot up for misguided expectations. We struggled, for example, to track down anything spicy to eat on Spice Island.
Experiences that result after falling for billboard promises, on the other hand, deliver self-discovery. Some of my self-discovery insights from taking a mid-winter summer break will have to first be penned for safekeeping in a private journal, and then perhaps eventually expressed in poetry, in Afrikaans. Jip. That deep.

What I can share freely is that I have acquired a glorious tan that no one will see before it fades, since it’s bloody freezing back home. In the words of Simba the Uber driver: “Welcome back to reality.”
Given that reality includes a memory bank filled with an epic bucket list adventure shared with friends-who-are-family, I’ll take it.

Asante sana, Zanzibar!
For more photos, head over to Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/cilnette8/
